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We are approaching the end of an exceptionally cold and rainy June. Even with the shelter of a hoop-
house covered with row-cover fabric my tomatoes are having a hard time setting fruit.  The varieties that have managed to set fruit thus far include –

Slava

Bonnie Best
Brad’s Black Heart
Box Car Willie
Flamme
Marmande

We have had rain 28 of the last 30 days, and no end in sight. Seeds are rotting in the ground for many of my plantings,  This could be the worst year ever for tomatoes, but so far, they are doing OK, pampered as they are with black poly at their base and row cover overhead.

I spent this Memorial day 3-day week-end finishing putting tomato plants out in the garden. The plants are planted through 3-mil black polyethylene, and covered with Agribon+ AG-19 Row Cover, layed over 10′ hoops of 1/2″ steel conduit.  Here is what I planted – (63 heirloom varieties in all).


Ananais Noir 

Last Spring was the coldest wettest Spring on record.  This Spring is worst.  April 19 is the average date of last frost in this area.  This year we had a hard frost on May 10.  This on top of record-breaking rainfall.  Now, however, real Spring has started like someone threw a switch.  Day-time temperatures are hovering around 80 and sunshine is forecast every day for the next week.  Now that the soil is dry enough it is a real race to get the garden planted.  Anticipating that planting date would be late, I started a lot of plants in pots in my greenhouse. This includes cucumbers, summer and winter squash varieties and even corn.  Here is one of my darling baby cucumber seedlings.

Although it is still spitting snow in this cruddy Pacific Northwest La Nina Spring, it is time to get tomatoes seedlings started.  Last year I had a major disaster using commercial potting soil.  There is virtually no regulation of what can be sold as potting soil, and the quality of commercial potting soils, especially at the low price end of the market, is incredibly variable.  Even for reputable commercial producers of potting soil, quality control can be problematic. Commercial potting soils typically contain compost made from home yard waste.  Home gardeners are notorious for using huge quantities of herbicides such as Weed-n-Feed.  If your potting soil contains significant quantities of Weed-n-Feed, guess what – your plants are going to die.  I experienced exactly that last year when every tomato seedling transplanted into 4 inch pots containing a particular batch of commercial potting soil died.  I lost 500 plants. Disasters like this could probably be avoided, or at least minimized, by buying premium brands of potting soil, but the price for these products is prohibitive.

Enough of that, from today forward I am producing my own potting soil.  This isn’t a simple matter, however, because recipes for potting soil are hugely variable, and there is almost no reliable information available about how they compare in performance.  Comparing about 20 recipes from different sources, I have come up with a consensus recipe.

Potting soils generally have three types of ingredients.
1) Organic matter, to provide aeration and moisture retention.  Good sources of organic matter include sphagnum moss, coir (coconut fiber) and compost.
2) Materials to promote drainage, including vermiculite, perlite, and sand.
3) Lime.  Organic matter, and especially sphagnum (peat) moss is extremely acidic (typically pH 3). Addition of lime is required to bring the pH up to near neutrality (pH 6-7).
4) Fertilizer.  The main requirements for fertility are nitrogen, phosphate and potassium, typically given as a nitrogen-phosphate-potassium percentage ( for example a 4-10-1 fertilizer is, by weight, 4% nitrogen, 10% phosphate and 1 percent potassium.  A good ratio of the three components for vegetable is 1:2:1. I am not a stickler for staying strictly organic, but I like to go the organic route when I can. Blood meal is a widely available organic source of Nitrogen.  The stuff I have is 13-0-0. Bone meal is commonly used for phosphate.  My supply is 3-15-0.  Wood ash is a good source of potassium, and since I sometimes heat my house with a wood-stove, it is free.  Wood ash typically has a nutrient composition of 0-1-3.

An optional additional ingredient is garden soil.  This will increase water retention, and will provide some additional fertility, especially in the form of micronutrients that may be lacking in the other components. 

Here is my recipe-